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That was probably one combination I didn't try. LED Lighting has really boomed in the RV Industry. You didn't say anything about a ground wire coming of the ballast yet the diagram indicates there is one. If needed, cut off excess length from the new wires ahead of time, but make sure they'll still easily reach and connect with the old wires. A couple of distinctions with what I am dealing with: 1) there is no green wire coming out of the left of the ballast: just one black and one white. If a fluorescent tube blinks on and off-a slower and more distinct process than flickering-the fault may lie in loose wiring or in another component, called the ballast. Your old ballast was a magnetic type. Ballast Bypass or AC Direct is a solution that doesn’t rely on the use of ballast as it has more disadvantages than advantages. Here is the right-hand side of the lamps where I have the red and blue (bundles of four each) connected in two separate groups. The other I just did, and it is working perfectly also. The problem is the ballast he sold me has less wires than my old one.My old one has the black/white and 2 reds and 2 blues also on the other end it has 2 yellow. They are also much less prone to problems. Step 1 Purchase a T8 ballast at a home improvement retailer. Is the fixture grounded? Looks like you're using new Reddit on an old browser. Having an indoor garden can significantly spike your electric bill, so you really want to save pennies every chance you get. Suggestions on grounding the lamp to a juncture box that has no ground wire? Differently than new electronic replacement ballasts, the existing ballasts have 1 blue lead and 1 red lead, and obviously a line and neutral. Take photos, make a drawing - do not fail to record this information as it makes wiring a new ballast far easier. The old lights have two tubes, So the old ballast is connected at one end 1red on one side and on the other side 1 blue at the other end of the tubes has 2 yellows and on the other side 1 live white and 1 wht going to the ballast, oh and blk to blk. Osram is a well known brand so I do not suspect a problem with the lamps. You get home and BOOM the thang has more wires than your old one. you would normally have the yellow connected to one end of a bulb and the other end will be connected to either a blue or a red wire . IF your fixture is quite old you may be better off buying a new one. One thing that might mess you up is if you have shunted sockets. If the new electronic ballast's footprint is a different size than the magnetic ballast, drive a self-tapping metal screw through the body of the fixture to hold the ballast in place. Ballasts that don't contain PCBs have the words "No PCBs" printed on them. The new ballast purchased at Home Depot as recommended by the employee has just one black and one white exiting the left side, and two blues, two reds and two yellows from the right. Note: There will be four to eight wires coming out of the ballast. Losses in the ballast due to its resistance and losses in its magnetic core may be significant, on the order of 5 to 25% of the lamp input electric power. Sure. Works fine, I was thinking about the jumpering when I was first doing it, so I guess I had somewhat of a clue. We're talking old 8-foot flourescent fixture. The HVAC shop should sell you a new capacitor. Do not try to duplicate the wiring I just stripped and twisted all the corresponding colored wires together: 2 reds to 2 reds, 2 blues to 2 My diagram has two red, two blue and two yellow. Make the cut close enough to the old ballast that the wires from the new ballast will easily reach the old wires. The ballast makes sure that the amount of current being provided to the lamp is not more than the specification of the light. I am installing a New T8 Single tube ballast to replace an older ballast. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the electricians community. The HVAC shop should sell you a new capacitor. The site may not work properly if you don't, If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit, Press J to jump to the feed. Others want it on the 2 pins at one end of the tube, in which case watch out for "shorting lampholders". 2) from the left side, there is one red, one blue and one yellow wire that are not reflected in the diagram below. But, you will need to be proficient at reading the schematic that is on the new ballast. Welcome Reddit's International Electrical Worker Community. So, how to wire the new ballast to my fixture so it works? Today’s homeowner puts much more demands on the home’s electrical systems than was anticipated when they were created. The old style ballast and its wire could have dated from the 1950's. More below. my new electronic ballast has 1 white, 1 black, 2 yellow, 2 red, and 2 blue wires … The schematic isn't making sense to me and I have tried many different combinations of these wires, which succeeds to power only a single bulb at a time. This is ideal for instant start lamps, but won't work for a program rapid start ballast. this allowed having only 1 bulb in the fixture to reduce the brightness. Thanks for any help you may be able to give. 3. Old Ballast was 1 red - 1 blue - 1 black and 1. When done this way, the lampholders need to be removed from the fixture. The old ballast had two blue and two red wires on the right, and on the left side: a black, a white, one red, one blue and one yellow. Do you mind explaining how that worked? First, they start more quickly than magnetic ballasts. You should have just bought a whole new fixture. Because of the power that would be lost, resistors are not used as ballasts for lamps of more than about two watts. Run one jumper from each side of each yellow to the other socket on that end. Efficiency is really what it’s all about. It has only two blue wires, two red wires, and two yellow wires. 3000 (halogen), 3500, 4100 (normal fluorescent), 5100, or 6500 (cloudy day). I initially bundled the extra left-hand red with the four red on the right-hand side, and the same with the extra blue, but this did not work. Moving from a magnetic ballast to an electronic one will help you do that. The new one has black/white and 2 blues and one red. I have an unhealthy fascination with led bulbs. One was replaced over a year ago and is working perfectly. I am replacing an old ballast with a new one and have wires left over. If you have the chops to change a ballast, you can handle this. The new, replacement ballast (Philips RELB-2S40-N) is below. You do not need old ballast has 1 white and 1 black wire on one end then one red and one blue on the other end. Before wiring to the ballast all of the 8 tombstones get a jumper wire to connect one side to the other so you could do that a head of time or as you go. I hooked it up like the other poster said, red with yellows, one blue with reds and one blue with the 2 blues. What is the red wire on a ballast? They are different. Ballast Wire Colors Wire colors for individual and common connections on fluorescent ballasts will vary depending on ballast type, brand, and the number of lamps they support. Each year, between 45,000 and 55,000 house fires occur in the United States due to faulty electrical work or old wiring. Cut all the wires connected to the fluorescent light ballast. You will need T8 lamps too. The advancements made with new ballast technologies save you money, push more light and maximize your yields in the long run. For reference, the ballast will likely have a wiring diagram printed right on the ballast itself. The ballast has a hot and neutral wire at one end to receive power, and two blue wires a red one at the other end to supply power to the lights. There were some fluorescent fixtures in my father's gas station that were over 40 years old and still working!! Yes, the third ballast (HLS) doesn't work since the digital timer inside it died, the light would not work when tested. In this picture, the two yellow are NOT connected to the single yellow on the left hand side: Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram from the original ballast? "No PCBs" ballasts can be disposed with normal trash in most states. Replacing your T12 fixtures with T8 fixtures is more cost effective than changing out the ballasts, but if you invested a lot in your T12 fixtures and have developed a sentimental attachment, then you may want to invest in changing the ballasts and retaining the fixtures. The fixture wires include 2 blue wires coming out one side and a single red on the opposing side. If your fixture is old enough to have a "starter" you will follow the wiring digram in the new ballast and probably not use that. The fixture I show had an old ballast that used T12 tubes, while the new ballast only works for the T8 size. The incurred cost will preponderate over the preliminary financial savings by changeover to the ballast-compatible LED lamps for a large number of fixtures throughout a building. So, I've got two less blue wires, and an additional yellow. Follow the diagram and connect the different colors to the connectors. Is this how you have it wired? Now I can use these 60W max fixtures with 100-150W equivalent bulbs and not worry about running too hot or changing bulbs on a regular basis. Swapping magnetic ballasts for electronic. Help your fellow Redditors crack the electrical code. Aluminum wiring has been studied since about 1945, and began appearing in homes in North American as early as 1965. 1 to the socket of each bulb and then you have to install a jumper between the two sockets. Cheaper ballasts are likely to need more rewiring than a fitting that has a branded ballast in it. this allowed having only 1 bulb in the fixture to reduce the brightness. Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - 3 bulb florescent lighting new ballast install with more wires than old ballast - Ok heres my problem. Ignore the diagram that was on the old ballast. The new ballast has only two yellow wires. The other two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 2 and 3. Because they have advantages over more traditional solutions, new ballast designs may be the better choice for some jobs. Can you give the model number of the ballast you purchased? It’s worth spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the future. Follow the wiring diagram that came with your new ballast. Ballasts have certain colors for individual wires to lampholders, and other colors for common wires to holders. Contractor's Assistant: I'll do all I can to help. OP, this new ballast requires T-8 tubes which are 1" in diameter. Cut the Old Ballast Wiring. The new ballast has only two yellow wires. 1 to the socket of each bulb and then Oh me too believe me, everything other than those two T8 fixtures have been changed to LED around my property. Here's an article on how to tell the difference. Below is the old The electronic replacements ive been able to find have 2 blue and 1 red lead. Stack Exchange Network. Standard fluorescent lighting fixtures are more energy-efficient than incandescent light fixtures, and the bulbs generally last considerably longer, but occasionally a special transformer inside the fixture, called a ballast, may need replacing., may need replacing. If we had used Electrician it would have their charge per hour plus materials. I am trying to replace an instant start ballast with a programmed start ballast, since it's a frequently switched fixture, and I'm tired of burning bulbs every two months. 2) from the left side, there is one red, one blue and one yellow wire that are not reflected in the diagram below. Hi, I am trying to replace the two-light ballast below. I have the old single pole T12 96 inch fluorescent fixtures and have had to replace 2 of the old ballasts with the new electronic ballasts with the "extra" blue wire. The yellow wires are, for lack of a better description, are "shared"  so pin 1 of lamp 1 and pin 1 of lamp 2 go one yellow wire. Where as before, I put in multiple fixtures or larger fixtures in order to achieve high light output. If you’re using computer systems, gaming systems, large appliance, and even “smart home” components on a system that’s designed for much … After all of this I understand ballast wiring much better now. Can i run these by capping off the unused blue lead? The fixture now will not work with just 1 bulb, 2 must be intalled into the fixture. With the right type of LED replacement bulbs … The two contacts in the socket are electrically connected. Still no luck. The new one is electronic. Some LED tubes want 120V on the opposite ends of the tube. The new motor has several ways to connect common. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. The original magnetic ballast, at the bottom of the photo, is an Advance Ad-Lite Fluorescent Lamp Ballast produced by Advance Transformer Co. (Chicago) in the 1960s is far larger and heavier than the Philips Advance IntellilVolt replacement electronic ballast used to replace it. On the 4 lamp parallel ballast diagram below, each individual wire is connected to a pair of individual wires … On the 4 lamp instant start ballast diagram below, each individual wire is connected to a pair of individual wires on the lampholders. Cheaper ballasts are likely to need more rewiring than a fitting that has a branded ballast in it. Talk shop, show off pictures of your work, get general help, and ask code related questions. Notice how both the red and blue wires go to one lamp. Sure: GE-240-RS-MV-N-DIVFixture uses two 4 ft, 34 watt, T12 bulbs. In my opinion the improvements over the electronic ballast really make digital ballast design more of an incremental step as opposed to a completely different genre. If not, no big deal. In many instances, light fixtures must be partially disassembled to access the ballast for replacement. Aluminum Electrical Wiring Types [Click to enlarge any image] As you see in the photo above, typically aluminum electrical branch circuit wiring was plastic-covered. This broken ballast has four blue wires, two red wires, and one yellow (plus the white and black not shown). If you need to buy a T8 tube, you'll have your choice of color temperature. New-generation ballast designs can reduce the number of models that organizations must stock and help you avoid confusion over which ballast belongs in which fixture. Your old cap may not work on the new I am installing a New T8 Single tube ballast to replace an older ballast. I have indeed connected the two blue on the right side of the ballast with the two blue on the right side of the lamp as well as the two red with the two red. That's where you only have holes to insert wire on one side of the socket. Being fairly new to this, I havent seen any of these before. It will perform badly or not at all with a T-12 tube (1-1/2" diam.) I can see where yellow matches yellow, but there is a white and a black wire left over. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. The new ballast (which is a 2 bulb T8, compatible with F25 bulbs) has 2 red, 2 blue and 2 yellows that I didn't have before. The new ballast has one black wire, one white wire, two blue and one red. The old ballast has two wires coming and going from The new ballast has two blue and one red wire on one side, one black, one white on the other. Second ballast (powerplant) untested, but has had some new capacitors fitted. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. I just installed this new ballast. If you’re are new to the technology and are interested in using it to replace old incandescent bulbs or fluorescent lamps, you can use LED lights in your already existing fixtures. The fixture itself is a F25T8 with two bulbs. New Ballast in my kitchen light $20.00 VS. a whole new light fixture $120.00....SAVED us $100 PLUS+. I think the ballast is fine, but there is no ground, which is why I believe the light went out. The new ballast wires are connected to Which I tied together the corresponding colors with no issues. Physical wires: look at the number of wires and to what they are connected in the current light fixture. The replacement process was super easy. Read more. Which I tied together the corresponding colors with no issues. It’s worth spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the future. Your old cap may not work on the new motor because it may not be rated the same, the 2 brown wires go to that capacitor. The old ballast has two wires coming and going from . Do not panic. If all is as it should be you'll take the blues to one socket, the reds to the other socket on the same end of the fixture, and the yellows to one socket on the other end. Turn the power back on. 4) The lamps are brand new, and I did switch them. In your case you for sure made the right call. But then, what to do with the extra red and blue of that same left-hand trio? A 4 lamp fixture with two series ballasts can be replaced with a 4 lamp parallel ballast. what do I do with them. I'll do all I can to help. Because ballasts can last for 30 years or more, there are still some PCB-containing ballasts in older buildings. But T8 is not "the latest..." But T8 is not "the latest..." Going to T5 as a bulb/ballast replacement is harder, since the tube lengths and pins don't match up, but weird converter/extended devices are made. Fortunately, you can easily tell whether a ballast contains PCBs. There are two black and two white wires coming out of the old ballast and 4 connectors on the new ballast, so the numbers are right. 5 Strip wires about 3/8 to ½ inch in length. The yellows are going to go to the opposite side, they're going to tie into that red. It's important to use the proper gauge of wire. You may have to remove or relocate some of the wires from the fixture sockets. A new fixture would likely be only about $10 more than the replacement ballast. This broken ballast has four blue wires, two red wires, and one yellow (plus the white and black not shown). Cut the wires close to the old ballast and remove the ballast. Took old ballast to supply store and got the newer, smaller replacement ballast. I replaced a 20-year-old ballast that died last week. The newer T-8 fixtures are more energy efficient, give more light and light faster. Hi I have a old ballast with 6 wires, the new ballast has only 5 wires 1RED, 1Blk, 1Wht, at one end, on the other end 2blue. Two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 1 and 4. The solution is as follows: First, turn off the power supply to the fixture. Since removed the timer from the circuit, hoping to rebuild the light without the built in timer. A ballast is an electronic device that regulates the current required to illuminate a fluorescent tube. Here we will be wiring the new ballast to the old and some new tombstones. The new ballast (which is a 2 bulb T8, compatible with F25 bulbs) has 2 red, 2 blue and 2 yellows that I didn't have before. When the switch is ON, the initial voltage across the lamp becomes 1000 V around due to high valued, hence gas discharge takes place instantaneously. T8 ballasts are designed to … 4. Title 24 requirements In California, there are new Title 24 requirements that need to be met when you retrofit existing fixtures by replacing the ballast. 5. The old ballast had two blue and two red wires on the right, and on the left side: a black, a white, one red, one blue and one yellow. Follow the diagram on the new one and you will be fine. My old ballast was wired as pic 1 with 3 wires to the 3 connectors the new ballast has 6 connectors I wired old 1 to new 21 old 2 to 23 old 5 to 25 but no joy - do i have to loop 21-22 23-24 25-26 i know the tubes work and the plug Do not try to duplicate the wiring that is on the old ballast. On newer fixtures or those that have been updated, the ballasts are electronic and are more energy-efficient and quieter than older-style magnetic ballasts. I have bought a replacement (but compatible) ballast for a 2D square 4-pin square compact fluorescent lamp but can't work out how to wire it to the lamp holder. The schematic shows red, yel, blue. Lol. First start by of course turning off the power and disconnecting the black and white wires from your in coming power feed to the old fixture you could reinstall wire nuts on black and white power feed wires as to be able to turn power back on to the rest of the lights on that circuit or leave it off if your the forget full type and might not remember its on when you go to Install the new ballast. You can use this in your existing fixture. Moreover, a ballast has a limited life and must be replaced after failure. Thank you very much. If you are replacing a T8 ballast, the wiring of the old ballast should be the same as that on the new ballast. Without a ballast, a lamp or a bulb will rapidly increase its current draw and it can become uncontrollable as well. Instead, a reactance is used. The two yellow wires are the common connection. I believe most residential wiring codes require the use of solid core insulated wire. Since we are going to be removing the ballast in the next step, you want to also cut all the wires from the ballast to the tube holders. https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-the-Ballast-in-a-Fluorescent-Lighting-Fixture The new motor has several ways to connect common. The old ballast had 4 yellow wires allowing a completed circuit for each bulb. Wired in new ballast, put in bulbs and fixture worked for about 2 hours, then noticed it was not lit. Interesting article, thanks. The rapid start ballast uses voltage across the two contacts on the end of each lamp to heat the filament which makes the lamp easier to start and increases lamp life, especially in applications that are frequently switched on and off. This photo compares a pair of old and new ballasts. If you have shunted sockets, you'll have to replace them as well. Electronic ballasts are the new guys on the block. The black connects to a red power wire in the ceiling, the white to the whtie neutral, and the single red, blue and yellow wires all connected to matching wires on the fixture to the left. I like a lot of light so lumens and color temperature are a big thing for me and LED has helped with that, since now I can get a brighter bulb with less consumption.

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